Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
